Day 95: Korean Out-House

I feel as if I need to share this picture from one of the temples I went to while on one of my vacations (Cheolla-do). If you can read Korean somewhat or at least recognize characters, you'll be massively confused, similar to how I was when I first saw this. Then my friend explained that I should read it from right to left, like traditional Korean used to be written/read. But then I still ran into a problem with the second character because it seemed impossible. It turns out that in 'olden times', in order to write the ㄲ they would combine the ㅅ with the ㄱ. So, if written today we would spell it 뒤깐. But that still didn't make much sense to me until my friend said that they don't spell it 깐 anymore but 간, so we would write it 뒤간. I then started putting the pieces together. 뒤 means behind, while 간 means a small place. When added together, you'd think 'Oh, a small place behind', perhaps meaning storage or a shed. No guys and dolls, don't think to far here. When we say behind, we literally mean your behind, and the place that we refer to is, well, you get the idea. So, this building is home to the temple bathroom, which I had the joy of using, consisting of rectangular holes in the floor that drop down into the rocks/river below. Luckily, it didn't smell all that much, besides the awesome smell of old wood.

Day 94: Organic Korean Food

In the past month alone I've traveled quite extensively all through Korea, and have eaten the best food I've had in my life. But within proximity to Seoul, this is easily the best food I've had. About an hour outside the city (50 km or so), is 물꼬방, a rather famous Korean restaurant that only serves organic dishes. They are famous for their 된장, or soy-bean paste, made in the traditional style (meaning extra dark and really salty). This particular place is located in Gyeonggi-do, the region that surrounds the city of Seoul. The meal comes out in courses, enough for two people in each course. They range from 된장 yogurt (soy-bean paste yogurt), shredded coconut potato, tofu and kimchi (a personal favorite), what I can only translate into 'cornbread', prawns, and oysters. Then they serve the actual meal, the 식사. This is a very traditional, old-fashion Korean meal, with a good number of side dishes, a delicious bowl of rice, some of the best fish (prepared in this manner) I've had in Korea, and of course awesome 된장찌개, or soy-bean paste stew. The meal then finishes with a red bean paste/jelly sort of thing, similar I guess to cranberry sauce in a can, and some delicious vanilla flavored green tea. Guys and dolls, I need to get my stamp out because I need to certify this meal and this place a Martha Stewart Good Thing! We should sell it at Target!

Day 93: Deep Fried Stuff

For lunch last Sunday, still in Busan, my friend and I stumbled upon this Japanese place, with questionably authentic Japanese food. Even though the staff were all speaking Japanese, I don't remember seeing this deep-fried beef (similar to 탕수육... I guess 탕수소?) with a freaky red sauce that was not ketchup. It was delicious, no doubt about it, but it seemed like an odd food to eat, just by looking at it, because there wasn't much meat contained within the deep-fried batter. And the sauce tasted eerily familiar, though I can't remember it for the life of me now. Either way, it struck my fancy, that's for sure.

Day 92: View From A Far

While I'm on this Busan kick, I thought I'd share the view from dinner, which included the sun setting on the most famous beach in Korea, 해운대. During the day, this beach is packed with people, and the shoreline isn't very long. Even approaching 8pm there were quite a few people still there, but they were not allowed to swim too far as the coast guard was patrolling the beach: no swimming after sunset. Some of the most expensive reality in Korea is located here, and for good reason.

Day 91: Pumpkins and Islands and Gays, Oh My!

This picture, though not the best one I've taken, made me and my friend laugh while in Busan. You are all not mistaken, that is a giant plastic pumpkin in the back of that truck, along with two other trucks with the same exact thing. The hotel we stayed out apparently had itself a nightclub in the basement, the 호박클럽, the pumpkin club. So what do they do, they use giant plastic pumpkins in the back of trucks to advertise the club. This was the first sight when we got to our hotel around midnight that Friday. Upon further inspection, you'll see a banner hanging off the truck that reads: 독도는 우리땅. For those that don't speak the Korean, it basically translates to 'Dokdo is ours!' And for those of you fortunate enough not to know what this implies, Dokdo is a group of rocks, some call them 'islands', in the middle of nowhere between Korea and Japan that both claim ownership of. Japan is a bit passive about it, sticking it in textbooks and not really talking much about it. This infuriates Korea at no end, and so they take every opportunity to voice their support that Dokdo is in fact Korean. There is nothing special about these rocks, besides perhaps some fishing, but outside of that it is simply yet another thing that pisses people off. So needless to say, it made me laugh even more to see this hanging off the truck advertising the pumpkin nightclub. Later when I got back to Seoul, I found out that the district we stayed in, with our hotel and all the clubs, was actually Busan's equivalent to Jongro, or the gay district. I knew I felt a little too at home.

Day 90: Port at the Port

Yesterday I posted the real reason I went all the way to Busan. Now I'm posting pleasant side-effects of going. One nice happening was before dinner, my friend and I sat in the lounge at the Westin Chosun, beach view, with her Shirley Temple and my lovely port. Guys and dolls, I have to be honest, I haven't had good port in so long that I almost forgot how it tasted! But the minute the first drop hit my tongue I remembered: it tastes like a boozed-up Cinderella! And in case if any of you are wondering, that's a certified Martha Stewart good thing right there. With the live music in the background I could barely hear the annoying children running around the front lobby as their parents, typical of Korean parents, simply ignore their children's severe misgivings regarding decorum and complain over having to wait in a line to get into dinner.

Day 89: The Real Reason I Went

So I recently went to Busan, and everyone was asking why I was going and if I was going to eat yummy food and go to the beach. Guys and dolls, let's face it, the real reason I went all the way to Busan was the picture of your left: the largest shopping mall/store in the world (or so they say). The Shinsegae Department Store (BEXCO/ Centium City) has seven floors of top-notch shopping, followed by a couple more floors of other stuff. Sure, all these stores exist in Seoul, and sure, it's not like the prices are radically different or something special will only be found in this one store. But let's face it, who wants to walk outside from store to store to go shopping when you can stay indoors for nearly 7 hours to do the same exact shopping? The answer is a retard, that's who.

Day 88: Mountains and Valleys!

As part of the 진도 picture uploading, this is what took my breath away most of all. We drove over this one mountain and literally stumbled upon this: a beautiful valley of rice fields surrounded on three sides by mountains and on one side by the sea. We drove all through these mountains to the point where we were in the clouds. Needless to say, it was beyond words.

Day 87: The Sea!

I'm too lazy to write something long and complicated today, so here is the picture. I took it while driving along the shore of 진도 (Jin-do), the second biggest island and one of the most southern points in Korea. Though the weather was overcast, the temperature was brilliant and the smell was fresh as can be.

Day 86: More Temple Fun!

Guys and dolls, there's no denying it, I love Buddhist temples! Something about the smell, the space, and the tranquility overwhelms me and calms me. This particular one is located on the outskirts of 순천 (the same place where all those tall reeds are located), and is called 선암사(Sunam-Sa). This is actually a less famous temple that is located in very close proximity to one of the largest and most famous temples in Korea. We chose this one because we wanted someplace with less people and something a bit more tranquil. Needless to say, we got what we wanted. The entire walk up to the temple was shaded with the sound of the river to our left running down the hill, the breeze from the water cooling the entire path up to the temple. In the picture above you can see the river flowing down river, and all the way in the distance is a flat stone bridge, quite famous as a national treasure (certified and all). This was one of the more unexpected and beautiful finds in my time here in Korea.

Day 85: Horse Ear Temple

One of the more unexpected finds of the trip down south was the Buddhist temple to the right, located in 마이산, which literally refers to the ears of a horse. The reason for such a name is pretty obvious when you see the mountains: there are two mountains that are pressed together and look like horse ears. This temple sits in between them, famous not just for its location, but for the 80 stone pagodas that surround the temple. Originally there were 120 stone pagodas, all the rocks either local or from famous mountains in Korea. The temple is not very big, with only a few associated buildings as part of it. But if you walk all the way around the temple to the other side of the mountain, one of the most breath-taking views and waterfalls indicates the other reason this temple is famous.

Day 84: Lost in the Grass

My trip was filled with some of the most unexpected finds, both natural and man-made. This particular one is located in 순천 (Suncheon), one of the southern most cities in Korea. The above picture was taken right after sunset of the Suncheon bay (순천만). It's a naturally made bay as the water level is quite low. The city of Suncheon actually reminds me of Kobe in Japan primarily because of its geographical location: mountains to the back with the city overlooking the sea. The reeds stretch for miles, as far as the eye can see, and the mud that holds them in place are home to countless crabs that you can easily see as soon as the sun begins to go down. This city, much larger than I initially expected, has some amazing food, including 오리불고기, or duck bulgogi. It was the last stop in my trip and the perfect ending to a perfect trip.

Day 83: God, Are You There?

So, for the next couple of days I'm going to be posting pictures from my trip to the southeastern region of Korea, 전라도 (Cheolla-do). Though my 100 Days of Korea mainly focus on Seoul, I figured that I shouldn't let the opportunity to spread the beauty of some other parts of Korea. The first is of one of the oldest and most famous Catholic churches in Korea, located in 전주 (Jeonju). People who flock to this 전라복도 capital often take time to check out this rockin' house of God, and for good reason. It used to actually be a missions/ convent, though there are still some associated with it. A word about Christianity in Korea, and keep in mind this is very cursory and introductory (no need to explain to me as I am most likely going to know). Most Koreans, not dissimilar to many around the world, believe that Christianity and Catholicism are two completely different religions, rather than two different divisions of the same cookie known as Christianity (obviously their reference to Christianity would be more indicative of Protestantism). Cheolla-do actually houses the highest percentage of Christians in Korea compared to the other regions, which was rather surprising to me. Also, to add to my own disbelief, Catholicism in Korea is considered to be more liberal than Protestantism in Korea. Part of this has been explained as Catholics don't necessarily know what they believe (Catholic values may not be fully understood), while it could also be understood that Catholicism is the relatively the same while Protestantism in Korea is much stronger and more conservative. Again, I'm not here to start a debate on religion, so let's hold our tongues and comments guys and dolls. Below are two more pictures to enjoy from the same church~

Day 82: Apple Pie?

More cafes! This one was quite interesting, very small, but a total gem in the perfect location (meaning close to me). When I first fell upon 'a.Grace' I saw that they were selling plants outside, which I thought was quite nice (I bought a couple once). It was only when I ventured inside and took a gander at their menu did I find the real value of this place. Guys and dolls, if happiness were to be measured in pies, then an apple pie would mark me as the happiest person alive! And let me tell you, not only does this place have apple pie, but they also have pecan pie, chocolate brownie pie, and now banana pie! Those who know me, know that I am not really into cake, but a good pie is like gold to me. I've had 'pie' in Korea before and have been let down way too many times. But when I saw all these HOMEMADE pies I nearly Shatnered my pants. Then I ate the apple pie. I've been in love only twice in my life, and this was the second time I experienced love. No pie in Korea, and I mean NO PIE, has ever compared to this place, and guys and dolls, we are talking about three years experience in pie eating in Korea. Needless to say, I know a thing or two about pie in Korea, so if I say they have the best pie, they do indeed have the best pie. I bet all the money in my pockets against all the money in your pockets that even Martha Freakin' Stewart herself would declare these pies as 'a good thing'.

Day 81: Lord Sandwich and Lady Bread

Okay, so this picture is horrible. I realize that. I was running late for work and snapped it as I was walking past. However, the awesomeness of this place still stands. That concrete grey building has some pretty awesome history. When I first got here, it used to be a type of hall of sorts, I think either part of Yonsei or separate. It was not open to the public it seemed, but none of us really knew what it was. Then about two years ago (maybe 2.5 years ago) I saw some construction work being done on it and before I knew it, the words 'Lord Sandwich' with a silhouette of a man were plastered on the front. For the longest time I wondered what it was, and also how to get into the building as it was no ordinary building. Once I finally uncovered the door and went inside, I saw that they made sandwiches (duh) and other stuff (not as good as the sandwiches though). In Korea, there are two types of foods that are quite difficult to find decently made for a decent price: a salad and a sandwich. In America, you can head over to Panera, ABC, or even Publix and get a nice salad or sandwich for a good price. But in Korea, the sandwiches are abnormal and the salads are, in all honesty, crappy. So when I stumbled upon this place 2 years ago and their amazing selection of amazing sandwiches, the light inside my soul sparked on once again. Make no mistake, guys and dolls, nothing makes me happier than finding a decently made sandwich. I'm still working on the salad, though I must say Au Bon Pain has helped).

Day 80: Strawberry Jam!

The strawberry place! 딸기골 was the first Korean place I ate at when I got to school three years ago, and still remains a favorite among international students for three reasons: it's Korean, it's close, and it's cheap. Lunch and/or dinner has never been so inexpensive and mildly delicious then with the strawberry place! For an entire year I thought there was only this one, but lo-and-behold, there is one right around the corner... literally 20 second walk from this one with the same exact name. But this one is significantly larger. The menu is quite large, meaning there are several different items on it. There are some awesome memories at this place, mostly with cheap food and PEAR, but other things as well (wow that was vague). But guys and dolls, the problem with going to a place so often is you get tired of it rather quickly. And let me say, I got tired of it rather quickly!

Day 79: Blame it on China, Folks

A favorite pastime of mine: Blaming China for all my problems. It's not the nicest thing to do, but I figure we have to blame someone, and i sure as hell am not going to blame myself! But in all seriousness, one of the most interesting aspects of Korea is the deluge of Chinese restaurants around, barely any of them 'authentic'. There is an colorful, if not depressing, history to Chinese food in Korea, dating back to Chinese forced into Korea and having no other choice but cook and sell their food as a way to survive. I remember learning about this, over dinner with a former professor. Eating Chinese food in Korea never seemed to be the same after that depressing bit of history, but it doesn't mean it made it any less delicious. This place, 효동각, is located close to my house and Yonsei University and is perhaps some of the best Korean-Chinese food I've ever had, especially their 탕수육 (sweet and sour pork). Most places make it similar to others, but this place has a sauce that is worth the exceptionally high price they charge. It's really the only reason I go here, because I don't eat black noodles and even though their udon is great, it's udon. All in all, guys and dolls, this is one of those places that I will certainly miss when I head home in August, even if there is nothing really 'authentic' about this Chinese food.

Day 78: Catch Fido!

There yet exists an Apple Store in Korea. There are, however, overpriced knock-off Apple Stores that sell all of Apple's products (even includes a faux Genius Bar and matching shirts), yet still is not referred to as an Apple Store. Ah, Apple has quite the love-hate relationship with Korea. Only recently has the use of an Apple computer come into fashion in Korea, and yet the country is nearly entirely based on a PC world, meaning all the networks, wi-fi connections, and Internet are based on both Internet Explorer (that god-awful, sorry excuse for a browser) and Flash (may God have mercy on Korea's soul). It was really the iPod that started the ball rolling in Korea, and now especially with the iPhone have Koreans become more aware of the existence of something that is not PC compatible. If you ask me, it's about damn time, but it is still a facade, because most Koreans I encounter still don't know how to use a Mac, even though they are infinitely easier to use than a PC. Guys and dolls, I blame this problem on society.

Day 77: Korea Chainsaw Massacre

There is this unhealthy (or really, I say naturally healthy) obsession with whiteness in Korea. All the different skin shops, including big global giants such as Dior and Clinique, have entire 'whitening' lines, and I'm not talking about for your teeth either. I'm not exactly sure what this smoothie (from Smoothie King) entails, especially in it's promise to 'be white', especially as it simply contains bananas, strawberries, and the occasional orange. I also don't understand what Kim Yuna has to do with being white. Are we going to turn into white snow? Is that what she is promising us? I sure hope not! On top of that, in a country obsessed with whitening and 'being white', when someone who is actually white (take me for example) is standing someplace, sitting someplace, or just minding my own business, I am signaled out as a freak. So what I've learned is that they want my skin, but would like to do away with the rest of me. Guys and dolls, is it just me or does this sound a lot like Texas Chainsaw Massacre? Wait, are there even chainsaws in Korea?

Day 76: Books I Should Read

So this isn't really a place or something distinctly Korean, but I found this to be a bit funny and it signals a larger trend and/or issue in Korea: magazine photo shoots. Sure, we all just peruse the pictures, perhaps reading an article here or there, but if you ever take a look at the actual pictures you may run into something like today's picture. Guys and dolls, this lovely young lady is enjoying some light reading, is she not? She must be studying to be a film director of camera operator, because her copy of 'American Cinematographers Manual' looks a bit worn; she studies hard! If I had taken a picture of the rest of the picture, you all would have seen a stack of equally random books, including 'The Americans' and something about fishing. I'd say this young lass is a Jane of All Trades (we here at flavored musik are politically correct and do not discriminate based on gender).

Day 75: Levels of Fun!

Perhaps one of the more touristy places I'll post, 쌈지길 (or Ssamjigil), was not always so touristy. The story of this place is that it was originally an old factory building or warehouse that was bought and transformed into what it is today. When the place first opened, the idea was that only Korean-made things would be bought and sold there, not necessarily traditional things, but things from independent artists/ retailers. So, it is common to find jewelry, hats, stationary, calligraphy paper, books, and wooden objects sold at this place. The aim was simple: Made-in-Korea. Today, much of that has retained, but it has become so touristy that the prices have become extremely inflated. However, it is still one of my favorite places, located in 인사동 (Insadong), with some very interesting things for sale. Even the expert Seoulite like myself, guys and dolls, can have enjoyable times at this place.

Day 74: Where Stuff Is

Just a quick post today for reference. I've talked and posted about the SFC Mall that is located under the Seoul Financial Center downtown. Well, I thought it only proper to actually post a picture of the Seoul Financial Center (SFC) to give a point of reference for all you peeps out there desiring to have yourself some awesome times underground. The SFC Mall has, besides that tripped-out Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, some amazing Indian food, Italian, Chinese, chocolate cafe (with some delicious chocolate candies), Japanese food, hamburgers, and even a Dunkin Donuts! Guys and dolls, could this be heaven? I think so!

Day 73: Holy Jesus, No Free Will!

English: The Achilles' Heel of Korea. Sometimes I find things funny, and sometimes I find myself asking philosophical questions that could possibly destroy whole religions! Guys and Dolls, this is certainly the latter! John 8:32 states that "Then you shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free." Granted, even if you aren't Christian, the latter part of this phrase has become quite universal in America (an perhaps most places). I, for one, thought it was universal enough to have been properly brought over to Korea, and yet I was bemused to see that it did, but not exactly in the same words. This big stone with writing on it has that same phrase in Korea and English (and John 8:32), but the English states "The Truth Will Make You Free". Now I 'm sure there are many of you who will say 'who cares, it means the same thing'. But guys and dolls, it doesn't! In fact, it means two completely different things! by using the phrase 'will make' it implies force, that the truth will force someone to be free... perhaps free against their own will? Danger Will Robinson, Danger! The phrase 'shall set' implies that we are shackled, held against our will, by the sin and lies of the world and that only truth can set us free; the juxtaposition is between being a slave set free. However, the Korean version of 'will make' does not have that same implication. Sure, we can chock it up to lost in translation, but these are two fundamentally different meanings that could alter whole religions! However, it's carved on a rock in an obscure place at Yonsei University, so I doubt it will be a big deal. But, an interesting point, Yonsei does make all its students attend Chapel for a certain period of time while a student. Dare I say it? Are they making their students free with truth?

Day 72: Books and Life Insurance

In keeping with the tradition of large Korean companies diversifying into random business areas, Kyobo is one of those companies that will not only insure your life, but sell you a book that prepares you for one of the 534 English tests that's out there, an SAT prep book, a book about Bali, a map of Russia, a planner with scary cats on it, and the latest Taeyang CD. Guys and Dolls, Kyobo is quite the busy company! Underground, connected to the downtown subway system, exists one of the largest bookstores in Korea. I'm tellin' ya, this thing is huge. It has one of the largest foreign books section in Korea as well, both English and Japanese. In addition, it has a pretty decent CD store (Hot Tracks) and a range of stationary, electronics, toys, journals, pens, stamps, etc. Needless to say, it's a good thing.

Day 71: Stuff for Fires

I'm not in the mood for a long entry, so I'm going to post another good restaurant for some of you people out there looking for a good place to dine. This place, Wood & Brick, is also in Gwanghwamun and is right next door to The Place (from yesterday). This place, though, is a bit more pricey but they do have a lovely bakery with delicious sandwiches. The atmosphere is really 'fast past world in the big city' and the food is quite delicious. So for a little bit more money, you can enjoy yourself.

Day 70: Remember that Place We Went To?

One of my favorite places to go, no pun intended, to eat good Italian food, pizza, sometimes brunch, and a very interesting salad bar is The Place. Thus far, I know of two, this particular one in Gwanghwamun. The prices aren't outrageous, given the food quality, but it can ring up to quite a bit given the fact that the salad bar is not so much 'pay and eat as much as you want' as much as it is 'pay by the gram'. So you load your plate up with some salad, various meats, and other yummies, and pay based on the weight of your food. So a place of yummies could cost you upwards to 13 to 15 bucks, plus you need to still pay for your main dish. I usually like to go with a friend, get the salad bar and also a pizza or something else depending on our mood. Of the people that I've brought here, all have commented that this is one of the better places to go for mid-priced food and a nice comfortable atmosphere to solicit positive conversation. Guys and dolls, it's a good thing.

Day 69: In Your Face, Aurthur

I often say to myself: Tim, if you ever had a castle, you'd totally be able to rule the world. Well, I still don't have myself a castle, but I do have a picture of a medieval castle in Korea that serves sausages, beer, and Italian food. This particular one is located in Hongdae, where, if you haven't learned by now, all the freaky things of Korea live (well, here and Itaewon). Every time I pass by it I think of dinner theater and Medieval Times and Tournament. But alas, such a thing does not exist in Korea. If it did, guys and dolls, I'm sure it would be in Hongdae, and I'm sure it would do well for about a month but then fail miserably. Ah yes, the beauty of Hongdae.

Day 68: Christmas in July

Right outside my hair salon I spotted this delightful sign. I thought to myself, if I had one wish, it would definitely be to celebrate Christmas everyday, you know, after wishing for large sums of money, a puppy, and world peace. But then I started thinking about the repercussions of such a wish, and therefore such a cafe. After a while, the holiday cheer turns to holiday denial, which leads to holiday depression, holiday suicidal tendencies, and finally, holiday weight gain. The last thing we need is another way to gain excessive amount of weight, especially when we already have places like McDonald, Taco Bell, Television, Religion, and Kittens. There is this place in Shinchon called 'Santa's Village' which opened last November and originally served hamburgers (because nothing says Merry Christmas quite like dead cow covered in cheese and lettuce), but now they serve various breakfast foods and beer. Guys and dolls, is it just me or has Christmas been corrupted?

Day 67: Fish in a Barrel

Sometimes we make restaurants out of giant European cook books, and sometimes we simply take large barrels, cut a hole in them, and charge high prices for people to eat meat and chicken in them. This is an example of the latter. In Hongdae, in the back alley of a road that is not so mainstream exists this place, a cross between a pirate's den and a Martha Stewart fixer-upper. The food, when I went a while back, was quite good, and the atmosphere was a little more than strange, to say the least. The entire thing looked like a make-shift fort, but still had this air of superiority as if eating in a place with a giant barrel with a hole in it as the front door is somehow above eating in places made out of concrete or brick or adheres to the fire code.