Epilogue: Beyond this Adventure

Almost exactly three years later and I am finally leaving the place I've known as 'home' with very little hesitation. Granted, others have been here for a longer period of time, have families here, and still move forward, they aren't me and those who know me know that me and Korea have a relationship that is different than most foreigners here, even those living here for so long. Going from a small, nowhere town to Atlanta and a reputable university, to Japan, and now to Korea; no sign ever pointed to that progression. I so freely allowed myself to move from place to place, because I believed that no place, no challenge, was ever big enough for me. I never move backwards, only forwards. Though I'm on my way back to Atlanta for school, it is a giant leap forward, one that both scares me and excites me.

Korea has been kind to me, but it has no doubt been difficult. I'm not a 'get used to the temperature and slowly get in' kind of guy; I'm more of a 'cannonball into the deep end' person and Korea was no exception. No one understood why I was going to Korea when I announced more than three years ago my intention. Now they get it, and I think even now I finally understand. The friends I made here are now my family, and I know I will see them because this kind of family never breaks apart. Those who have been with me through thick and thin over here know I love them and cherish them the way they deserve, and the way they should properly be loved and cherished. I've shared parts of me I never knew existed, done things I never thought I could. They know who they are, and they know it is never goodbye but simply see you later.

I leave knowing full-well I'll be back soon enough. Be it a year, two years, or even three, I'll be back. And though things will undoubtably change, Korea will always be Korea and just like home, I will welcome the return. Though at times confusing, difficult, and annoying, Korea is like family and it is simply part of the terrain.

Day 100:Hair, Coffee, and in Between

Well guys and dolls, we've made it! It's been 100 days and, incidentally, today is my birthday. Happy Birthday to ME! This final picture combines perhaps two of my favorite things of Korea: cafes and hair shops. Those who know me know that my favorite place to go is a hair salon; i get my hair did more often than the vast majority of women I meet. In Korea, I've had the best hair-related experiences and have done some of the most outrageous hair-related things with some of the best hair-related stylists. Most of them never have the opportunity to work on a foreigner, at least one that has such awesome dedication to his/her hair as I obviously do. My favorite salon is the Juno Hair around Ehwa Women's University. The best part is that while they do my hair, or while I wait, they offer me free cafe-related beverages. There is no better way to end this 100 Days of Korea than with the thing I'll miss the most about Korea (okay, one of the two things I'll miss most, because we all know what the other one is): my hair salon. Appropriately enough, as it is my birthday, I am off to this very hair salon today to get my hair did for the last time in Korea. This is certainly a sad moment in my life, but will no doubt be a certifiable Martha Stewart Good Thing.

Day 99: Korea's Las Vegas

If you think Las Vegas is a one of a kind place, think again! If you think that getting hitched at some tacky house of love from an Elvis impersonator is something only found in Las Vegas, you'd be wrong! Guys and dolls, Korea has places just as wacky and tacky, if not more so because they consider it totally legitimate and in no way an improper way to tie the knot. We call them 'wedding halls', and if you think weddings are about a union of two people with God, then you've obviously not been to a Korean one. In essence, it's a performance, and a rather expensive one at that. We can't all be Chelsea and spend three million dollars on our wedding, but Koreans sure as hell try! Basically, the ceremony and the reception are merged into one massive party where you eat while they get married, and let me tell you, this is a brilliant idea! But what gets me are these wedding halls, especially how crazy they can get. This picture is just one, and let me say it's quite normal compared to other ones. Castles, palaces, and 'starry night at the prom' are but a few of the thematic wedding halls that exist in Korea. I can see over zealous couples loving this idea, but when the parents are the ones paying for it I find it hard to believe that they are on board with their children getting married in a place that looks like it was taken from the castle at Elsinore. But it happens! Every day at that! I would go on and on about getting married in Korea, but besides the money they spend on it, the lack of 'religion' from the ceremony, the fact that guests have to give them money and they have a table outside the hall where they collect it, and that the 'walking down the aisle' is more like 'posing on the catwalk', it's pretty uneventful.

Day 98: We All Need Some History

This is another one of the few touristy things I've posted: the National Museum of Korea. I'm normally not a fan of museums, especially history-related museums. But this particular one is beautiful to look at and amazing to walk through. First of all, the thing is huge: three FULL floors of some of the most breathtaking artifacts, art, etc. I've seen. One day out of the week the museum is open until 8 or 9pm, and going at night is like going to a completely different museum, not only because of the utter silence, but the dimmed corners and lack of lighting make viewing the collections that much more magical. Perhaps the highlight of this museum, though, is the Buddhist collection, found in the paintings, sculptures, and statues. I went this week simply for that collection, though I've seen it at least twice before, I wanted one last look before heading back to the States. Guys and dolls, that's how good of a thing it is.

Day 97: Timmy Ate Lassie

This one Korean thing I had been putting off for the three years I've been here, but finally grabbed myself by the balls and jumped in. Growing up, kids would always tease me by saying 'where's Lassie, Timmy?' Well, now if someone were to ask me now, I could simply respond: "I ate him". Guys and dolls, that's right, this Timmy ate Lassie, or whatever the Korean equivalent would be. Yesterday, my friend took me to eat dog at a place called 갑부집 in which we had (as pictured above) a delicious soup with dog meat and just steamed dog meat. Was it good? It was certainly quite different, though the taste wasn't that exotic, nor did it look strange. It did smell a bit weird, but that didn't really influence the taste. In Korea, the dogs that we eat are raised on special farms and must be killed in a certain way, and only a certain breed of dog is used for food. When eating dog, we usually don't grill it because of the smell; we rather eat it steamed or broiled and in soup, which is most common. These things, though, are quite expensive, as the two things we ate yesterday added up to more than 40,000 won.

Day 96: Tim's Favorite Pass-Time

That's right guys and dolls, Tim likes himself some 노-래-방 (or karaoke for those out there not in the know). Japan equally enjoys karaoke, but the vast amount of karaoke places (literally 'song room') in Korea is amazing. In addition, karaoke in Korea is significantly cheaper than Japan as you pay by the hour and room rather than the number of people. In addition, most of the self-owned places will offer service, especially if you are a frequent customer (usually in the form of extra time and drinks). So, you could pay around 15,000 won for an hour, but you end up getting two or even three hours out of that 15,000 won. Now that's service! This particular picture is of what we call 'luxury 노래방'. The rooms are much cleaner, smell nice, look nice, have better equipment, nicer staff, and just feel better. The downside? More expensive and usually no service; so that 20,000 only gets you one hour. This particular place is famous, located in 홍대, because the outside looks like a giant mansion, and each window is home to a karaoke room where the people below can see the occupants doing their thang. Some interesting things to watch out for. The standard karaoke room is known as 노래방, but you will often see variations on this, including the following: 노래빵, 노래장, 노래짱, 노래집, and 노래룸. All are, in a sense, karaoke rooms, but will often include at least one of the following things: host/hostesses, alcohol, food, and higher prices. My favorite is the 노래연습, which literally means song practice. I have never ventured into one of those, but I'd be keen on finding out one day.

Day 95: Korean Out-House

I feel as if I need to share this picture from one of the temples I went to while on one of my vacations (Cheolla-do). If you can read Korean somewhat or at least recognize characters, you'll be massively confused, similar to how I was when I first saw this. Then my friend explained that I should read it from right to left, like traditional Korean used to be written/read. But then I still ran into a problem with the second character because it seemed impossible. It turns out that in 'olden times', in order to write the ㄲ they would combine the ㅅ with the ㄱ. So, if written today we would spell it 뒤깐. But that still didn't make much sense to me until my friend said that they don't spell it 깐 anymore but 간, so we would write it 뒤간. I then started putting the pieces together. 뒤 means behind, while 간 means a small place. When added together, you'd think 'Oh, a small place behind', perhaps meaning storage or a shed. No guys and dolls, don't think to far here. When we say behind, we literally mean your behind, and the place that we refer to is, well, you get the idea. So, this building is home to the temple bathroom, which I had the joy of using, consisting of rectangular holes in the floor that drop down into the rocks/river below. Luckily, it didn't smell all that much, besides the awesome smell of old wood.

Day 94: Organic Korean Food

In the past month alone I've traveled quite extensively all through Korea, and have eaten the best food I've had in my life. But within proximity to Seoul, this is easily the best food I've had. About an hour outside the city (50 km or so), is 물꼬방, a rather famous Korean restaurant that only serves organic dishes. They are famous for their 된장, or soy-bean paste, made in the traditional style (meaning extra dark and really salty). This particular place is located in Gyeonggi-do, the region that surrounds the city of Seoul. The meal comes out in courses, enough for two people in each course. They range from 된장 yogurt (soy-bean paste yogurt), shredded coconut potato, tofu and kimchi (a personal favorite), what I can only translate into 'cornbread', prawns, and oysters. Then they serve the actual meal, the 식사. This is a very traditional, old-fashion Korean meal, with a good number of side dishes, a delicious bowl of rice, some of the best fish (prepared in this manner) I've had in Korea, and of course awesome 된장찌개, or soy-bean paste stew. The meal then finishes with a red bean paste/jelly sort of thing, similar I guess to cranberry sauce in a can, and some delicious vanilla flavored green tea. Guys and dolls, I need to get my stamp out because I need to certify this meal and this place a Martha Stewart Good Thing! We should sell it at Target!

Day 93: Deep Fried Stuff

For lunch last Sunday, still in Busan, my friend and I stumbled upon this Japanese place, with questionably authentic Japanese food. Even though the staff were all speaking Japanese, I don't remember seeing this deep-fried beef (similar to 탕수육... I guess 탕수소?) with a freaky red sauce that was not ketchup. It was delicious, no doubt about it, but it seemed like an odd food to eat, just by looking at it, because there wasn't much meat contained within the deep-fried batter. And the sauce tasted eerily familiar, though I can't remember it for the life of me now. Either way, it struck my fancy, that's for sure.

Day 92: View From A Far

While I'm on this Busan kick, I thought I'd share the view from dinner, which included the sun setting on the most famous beach in Korea, 해운대. During the day, this beach is packed with people, and the shoreline isn't very long. Even approaching 8pm there were quite a few people still there, but they were not allowed to swim too far as the coast guard was patrolling the beach: no swimming after sunset. Some of the most expensive reality in Korea is located here, and for good reason.

Day 91: Pumpkins and Islands and Gays, Oh My!

This picture, though not the best one I've taken, made me and my friend laugh while in Busan. You are all not mistaken, that is a giant plastic pumpkin in the back of that truck, along with two other trucks with the same exact thing. The hotel we stayed out apparently had itself a nightclub in the basement, the 호박클럽, the pumpkin club. So what do they do, they use giant plastic pumpkins in the back of trucks to advertise the club. This was the first sight when we got to our hotel around midnight that Friday. Upon further inspection, you'll see a banner hanging off the truck that reads: 독도는 우리땅. For those that don't speak the Korean, it basically translates to 'Dokdo is ours!' And for those of you fortunate enough not to know what this implies, Dokdo is a group of rocks, some call them 'islands', in the middle of nowhere between Korea and Japan that both claim ownership of. Japan is a bit passive about it, sticking it in textbooks and not really talking much about it. This infuriates Korea at no end, and so they take every opportunity to voice their support that Dokdo is in fact Korean. There is nothing special about these rocks, besides perhaps some fishing, but outside of that it is simply yet another thing that pisses people off. So needless to say, it made me laugh even more to see this hanging off the truck advertising the pumpkin nightclub. Later when I got back to Seoul, I found out that the district we stayed in, with our hotel and all the clubs, was actually Busan's equivalent to Jongro, or the gay district. I knew I felt a little too at home.

Day 90: Port at the Port

Yesterday I posted the real reason I went all the way to Busan. Now I'm posting pleasant side-effects of going. One nice happening was before dinner, my friend and I sat in the lounge at the Westin Chosun, beach view, with her Shirley Temple and my lovely port. Guys and dolls, I have to be honest, I haven't had good port in so long that I almost forgot how it tasted! But the minute the first drop hit my tongue I remembered: it tastes like a boozed-up Cinderella! And in case if any of you are wondering, that's a certified Martha Stewart good thing right there. With the live music in the background I could barely hear the annoying children running around the front lobby as their parents, typical of Korean parents, simply ignore their children's severe misgivings regarding decorum and complain over having to wait in a line to get into dinner.

Day 89: The Real Reason I Went

So I recently went to Busan, and everyone was asking why I was going and if I was going to eat yummy food and go to the beach. Guys and dolls, let's face it, the real reason I went all the way to Busan was the picture of your left: the largest shopping mall/store in the world (or so they say). The Shinsegae Department Store (BEXCO/ Centium City) has seven floors of top-notch shopping, followed by a couple more floors of other stuff. Sure, all these stores exist in Seoul, and sure, it's not like the prices are radically different or something special will only be found in this one store. But let's face it, who wants to walk outside from store to store to go shopping when you can stay indoors for nearly 7 hours to do the same exact shopping? The answer is a retard, that's who.

Day 88: Mountains and Valleys!

As part of the 진도 picture uploading, this is what took my breath away most of all. We drove over this one mountain and literally stumbled upon this: a beautiful valley of rice fields surrounded on three sides by mountains and on one side by the sea. We drove all through these mountains to the point where we were in the clouds. Needless to say, it was beyond words.

Day 87: The Sea!

I'm too lazy to write something long and complicated today, so here is the picture. I took it while driving along the shore of 진도 (Jin-do), the second biggest island and one of the most southern points in Korea. Though the weather was overcast, the temperature was brilliant and the smell was fresh as can be.

Day 86: More Temple Fun!

Guys and dolls, there's no denying it, I love Buddhist temples! Something about the smell, the space, and the tranquility overwhelms me and calms me. This particular one is located on the outskirts of 순천 (the same place where all those tall reeds are located), and is called 선암사(Sunam-Sa). This is actually a less famous temple that is located in very close proximity to one of the largest and most famous temples in Korea. We chose this one because we wanted someplace with less people and something a bit more tranquil. Needless to say, we got what we wanted. The entire walk up to the temple was shaded with the sound of the river to our left running down the hill, the breeze from the water cooling the entire path up to the temple. In the picture above you can see the river flowing down river, and all the way in the distance is a flat stone bridge, quite famous as a national treasure (certified and all). This was one of the more unexpected and beautiful finds in my time here in Korea.

Day 85: Horse Ear Temple

One of the more unexpected finds of the trip down south was the Buddhist temple to the right, located in 마이산, which literally refers to the ears of a horse. The reason for such a name is pretty obvious when you see the mountains: there are two mountains that are pressed together and look like horse ears. This temple sits in between them, famous not just for its location, but for the 80 stone pagodas that surround the temple. Originally there were 120 stone pagodas, all the rocks either local or from famous mountains in Korea. The temple is not very big, with only a few associated buildings as part of it. But if you walk all the way around the temple to the other side of the mountain, one of the most breath-taking views and waterfalls indicates the other reason this temple is famous.

Day 84: Lost in the Grass

My trip was filled with some of the most unexpected finds, both natural and man-made. This particular one is located in 순천 (Suncheon), one of the southern most cities in Korea. The above picture was taken right after sunset of the Suncheon bay (순천만). It's a naturally made bay as the water level is quite low. The city of Suncheon actually reminds me of Kobe in Japan primarily because of its geographical location: mountains to the back with the city overlooking the sea. The reeds stretch for miles, as far as the eye can see, and the mud that holds them in place are home to countless crabs that you can easily see as soon as the sun begins to go down. This city, much larger than I initially expected, has some amazing food, including 오리불고기, or duck bulgogi. It was the last stop in my trip and the perfect ending to a perfect trip.

Day 83: God, Are You There?

So, for the next couple of days I'm going to be posting pictures from my trip to the southeastern region of Korea, 전라도 (Cheolla-do). Though my 100 Days of Korea mainly focus on Seoul, I figured that I shouldn't let the opportunity to spread the beauty of some other parts of Korea. The first is of one of the oldest and most famous Catholic churches in Korea, located in 전주 (Jeonju). People who flock to this 전라복도 capital often take time to check out this rockin' house of God, and for good reason. It used to actually be a missions/ convent, though there are still some associated with it. A word about Christianity in Korea, and keep in mind this is very cursory and introductory (no need to explain to me as I am most likely going to know). Most Koreans, not dissimilar to many around the world, believe that Christianity and Catholicism are two completely different religions, rather than two different divisions of the same cookie known as Christianity (obviously their reference to Christianity would be more indicative of Protestantism). Cheolla-do actually houses the highest percentage of Christians in Korea compared to the other regions, which was rather surprising to me. Also, to add to my own disbelief, Catholicism in Korea is considered to be more liberal than Protestantism in Korea. Part of this has been explained as Catholics don't necessarily know what they believe (Catholic values may not be fully understood), while it could also be understood that Catholicism is the relatively the same while Protestantism in Korea is much stronger and more conservative. Again, I'm not here to start a debate on religion, so let's hold our tongues and comments guys and dolls. Below are two more pictures to enjoy from the same church~

Day 82: Apple Pie?

More cafes! This one was quite interesting, very small, but a total gem in the perfect location (meaning close to me). When I first fell upon 'a.Grace' I saw that they were selling plants outside, which I thought was quite nice (I bought a couple once). It was only when I ventured inside and took a gander at their menu did I find the real value of this place. Guys and dolls, if happiness were to be measured in pies, then an apple pie would mark me as the happiest person alive! And let me tell you, not only does this place have apple pie, but they also have pecan pie, chocolate brownie pie, and now banana pie! Those who know me, know that I am not really into cake, but a good pie is like gold to me. I've had 'pie' in Korea before and have been let down way too many times. But when I saw all these HOMEMADE pies I nearly Shatnered my pants. Then I ate the apple pie. I've been in love only twice in my life, and this was the second time I experienced love. No pie in Korea, and I mean NO PIE, has ever compared to this place, and guys and dolls, we are talking about three years experience in pie eating in Korea. Needless to say, I know a thing or two about pie in Korea, so if I say they have the best pie, they do indeed have the best pie. I bet all the money in my pockets against all the money in your pockets that even Martha Freakin' Stewart herself would declare these pies as 'a good thing'.

Day 81: Lord Sandwich and Lady Bread

Okay, so this picture is horrible. I realize that. I was running late for work and snapped it as I was walking past. However, the awesomeness of this place still stands. That concrete grey building has some pretty awesome history. When I first got here, it used to be a type of hall of sorts, I think either part of Yonsei or separate. It was not open to the public it seemed, but none of us really knew what it was. Then about two years ago (maybe 2.5 years ago) I saw some construction work being done on it and before I knew it, the words 'Lord Sandwich' with a silhouette of a man were plastered on the front. For the longest time I wondered what it was, and also how to get into the building as it was no ordinary building. Once I finally uncovered the door and went inside, I saw that they made sandwiches (duh) and other stuff (not as good as the sandwiches though). In Korea, there are two types of foods that are quite difficult to find decently made for a decent price: a salad and a sandwich. In America, you can head over to Panera, ABC, or even Publix and get a nice salad or sandwich for a good price. But in Korea, the sandwiches are abnormal and the salads are, in all honesty, crappy. So when I stumbled upon this place 2 years ago and their amazing selection of amazing sandwiches, the light inside my soul sparked on once again. Make no mistake, guys and dolls, nothing makes me happier than finding a decently made sandwich. I'm still working on the salad, though I must say Au Bon Pain has helped).

Day 80: Strawberry Jam!

The strawberry place! 딸기골 was the first Korean place I ate at when I got to school three years ago, and still remains a favorite among international students for three reasons: it's Korean, it's close, and it's cheap. Lunch and/or dinner has never been so inexpensive and mildly delicious then with the strawberry place! For an entire year I thought there was only this one, but lo-and-behold, there is one right around the corner... literally 20 second walk from this one with the same exact name. But this one is significantly larger. The menu is quite large, meaning there are several different items on it. There are some awesome memories at this place, mostly with cheap food and PEAR, but other things as well (wow that was vague). But guys and dolls, the problem with going to a place so often is you get tired of it rather quickly. And let me say, I got tired of it rather quickly!

Day 79: Blame it on China, Folks

A favorite pastime of mine: Blaming China for all my problems. It's not the nicest thing to do, but I figure we have to blame someone, and i sure as hell am not going to blame myself! But in all seriousness, one of the most interesting aspects of Korea is the deluge of Chinese restaurants around, barely any of them 'authentic'. There is an colorful, if not depressing, history to Chinese food in Korea, dating back to Chinese forced into Korea and having no other choice but cook and sell their food as a way to survive. I remember learning about this, over dinner with a former professor. Eating Chinese food in Korea never seemed to be the same after that depressing bit of history, but it doesn't mean it made it any less delicious. This place, 효동각, is located close to my house and Yonsei University and is perhaps some of the best Korean-Chinese food I've ever had, especially their 탕수육 (sweet and sour pork). Most places make it similar to others, but this place has a sauce that is worth the exceptionally high price they charge. It's really the only reason I go here, because I don't eat black noodles and even though their udon is great, it's udon. All in all, guys and dolls, this is one of those places that I will certainly miss when I head home in August, even if there is nothing really 'authentic' about this Chinese food.

Day 78: Catch Fido!

There yet exists an Apple Store in Korea. There are, however, overpriced knock-off Apple Stores that sell all of Apple's products (even includes a faux Genius Bar and matching shirts), yet still is not referred to as an Apple Store. Ah, Apple has quite the love-hate relationship with Korea. Only recently has the use of an Apple computer come into fashion in Korea, and yet the country is nearly entirely based on a PC world, meaning all the networks, wi-fi connections, and Internet are based on both Internet Explorer (that god-awful, sorry excuse for a browser) and Flash (may God have mercy on Korea's soul). It was really the iPod that started the ball rolling in Korea, and now especially with the iPhone have Koreans become more aware of the existence of something that is not PC compatible. If you ask me, it's about damn time, but it is still a facade, because most Koreans I encounter still don't know how to use a Mac, even though they are infinitely easier to use than a PC. Guys and dolls, I blame this problem on society.

Day 77: Korea Chainsaw Massacre

There is this unhealthy (or really, I say naturally healthy) obsession with whiteness in Korea. All the different skin shops, including big global giants such as Dior and Clinique, have entire 'whitening' lines, and I'm not talking about for your teeth either. I'm not exactly sure what this smoothie (from Smoothie King) entails, especially in it's promise to 'be white', especially as it simply contains bananas, strawberries, and the occasional orange. I also don't understand what Kim Yuna has to do with being white. Are we going to turn into white snow? Is that what she is promising us? I sure hope not! On top of that, in a country obsessed with whitening and 'being white', when someone who is actually white (take me for example) is standing someplace, sitting someplace, or just minding my own business, I am signaled out as a freak. So what I've learned is that they want my skin, but would like to do away with the rest of me. Guys and dolls, is it just me or does this sound a lot like Texas Chainsaw Massacre? Wait, are there even chainsaws in Korea?

Day 76: Books I Should Read

So this isn't really a place or something distinctly Korean, but I found this to be a bit funny and it signals a larger trend and/or issue in Korea: magazine photo shoots. Sure, we all just peruse the pictures, perhaps reading an article here or there, but if you ever take a look at the actual pictures you may run into something like today's picture. Guys and dolls, this lovely young lady is enjoying some light reading, is she not? She must be studying to be a film director of camera operator, because her copy of 'American Cinematographers Manual' looks a bit worn; she studies hard! If I had taken a picture of the rest of the picture, you all would have seen a stack of equally random books, including 'The Americans' and something about fishing. I'd say this young lass is a Jane of All Trades (we here at flavored musik are politically correct and do not discriminate based on gender).

Day 75: Levels of Fun!

Perhaps one of the more touristy places I'll post, 쌈지길 (or Ssamjigil), was not always so touristy. The story of this place is that it was originally an old factory building or warehouse that was bought and transformed into what it is today. When the place first opened, the idea was that only Korean-made things would be bought and sold there, not necessarily traditional things, but things from independent artists/ retailers. So, it is common to find jewelry, hats, stationary, calligraphy paper, books, and wooden objects sold at this place. The aim was simple: Made-in-Korea. Today, much of that has retained, but it has become so touristy that the prices have become extremely inflated. However, it is still one of my favorite places, located in 인사동 (Insadong), with some very interesting things for sale. Even the expert Seoulite like myself, guys and dolls, can have enjoyable times at this place.

Day 74: Where Stuff Is

Just a quick post today for reference. I've talked and posted about the SFC Mall that is located under the Seoul Financial Center downtown. Well, I thought it only proper to actually post a picture of the Seoul Financial Center (SFC) to give a point of reference for all you peeps out there desiring to have yourself some awesome times underground. The SFC Mall has, besides that tripped-out Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, some amazing Indian food, Italian, Chinese, chocolate cafe (with some delicious chocolate candies), Japanese food, hamburgers, and even a Dunkin Donuts! Guys and dolls, could this be heaven? I think so!

Day 73: Holy Jesus, No Free Will!

English: The Achilles' Heel of Korea. Sometimes I find things funny, and sometimes I find myself asking philosophical questions that could possibly destroy whole religions! Guys and Dolls, this is certainly the latter! John 8:32 states that "Then you shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free." Granted, even if you aren't Christian, the latter part of this phrase has become quite universal in America (an perhaps most places). I, for one, thought it was universal enough to have been properly brought over to Korea, and yet I was bemused to see that it did, but not exactly in the same words. This big stone with writing on it has that same phrase in Korea and English (and John 8:32), but the English states "The Truth Will Make You Free". Now I 'm sure there are many of you who will say 'who cares, it means the same thing'. But guys and dolls, it doesn't! In fact, it means two completely different things! by using the phrase 'will make' it implies force, that the truth will force someone to be free... perhaps free against their own will? Danger Will Robinson, Danger! The phrase 'shall set' implies that we are shackled, held against our will, by the sin and lies of the world and that only truth can set us free; the juxtaposition is between being a slave set free. However, the Korean version of 'will make' does not have that same implication. Sure, we can chock it up to lost in translation, but these are two fundamentally different meanings that could alter whole religions! However, it's carved on a rock in an obscure place at Yonsei University, so I doubt it will be a big deal. But, an interesting point, Yonsei does make all its students attend Chapel for a certain period of time while a student. Dare I say it? Are they making their students free with truth?

Day 72: Books and Life Insurance

In keeping with the tradition of large Korean companies diversifying into random business areas, Kyobo is one of those companies that will not only insure your life, but sell you a book that prepares you for one of the 534 English tests that's out there, an SAT prep book, a book about Bali, a map of Russia, a planner with scary cats on it, and the latest Taeyang CD. Guys and Dolls, Kyobo is quite the busy company! Underground, connected to the downtown subway system, exists one of the largest bookstores in Korea. I'm tellin' ya, this thing is huge. It has one of the largest foreign books section in Korea as well, both English and Japanese. In addition, it has a pretty decent CD store (Hot Tracks) and a range of stationary, electronics, toys, journals, pens, stamps, etc. Needless to say, it's a good thing.

Day 71: Stuff for Fires

I'm not in the mood for a long entry, so I'm going to post another good restaurant for some of you people out there looking for a good place to dine. This place, Wood & Brick, is also in Gwanghwamun and is right next door to The Place (from yesterday). This place, though, is a bit more pricey but they do have a lovely bakery with delicious sandwiches. The atmosphere is really 'fast past world in the big city' and the food is quite delicious. So for a little bit more money, you can enjoy yourself.

Day 70: Remember that Place We Went To?

One of my favorite places to go, no pun intended, to eat good Italian food, pizza, sometimes brunch, and a very interesting salad bar is The Place. Thus far, I know of two, this particular one in Gwanghwamun. The prices aren't outrageous, given the food quality, but it can ring up to quite a bit given the fact that the salad bar is not so much 'pay and eat as much as you want' as much as it is 'pay by the gram'. So you load your plate up with some salad, various meats, and other yummies, and pay based on the weight of your food. So a place of yummies could cost you upwards to 13 to 15 bucks, plus you need to still pay for your main dish. I usually like to go with a friend, get the salad bar and also a pizza or something else depending on our mood. Of the people that I've brought here, all have commented that this is one of the better places to go for mid-priced food and a nice comfortable atmosphere to solicit positive conversation. Guys and dolls, it's a good thing.

Day 69: In Your Face, Aurthur

I often say to myself: Tim, if you ever had a castle, you'd totally be able to rule the world. Well, I still don't have myself a castle, but I do have a picture of a medieval castle in Korea that serves sausages, beer, and Italian food. This particular one is located in Hongdae, where, if you haven't learned by now, all the freaky things of Korea live (well, here and Itaewon). Every time I pass by it I think of dinner theater and Medieval Times and Tournament. But alas, such a thing does not exist in Korea. If it did, guys and dolls, I'm sure it would be in Hongdae, and I'm sure it would do well for about a month but then fail miserably. Ah yes, the beauty of Hongdae.

Day 68: Christmas in July

Right outside my hair salon I spotted this delightful sign. I thought to myself, if I had one wish, it would definitely be to celebrate Christmas everyday, you know, after wishing for large sums of money, a puppy, and world peace. But then I started thinking about the repercussions of such a wish, and therefore such a cafe. After a while, the holiday cheer turns to holiday denial, which leads to holiday depression, holiday suicidal tendencies, and finally, holiday weight gain. The last thing we need is another way to gain excessive amount of weight, especially when we already have places like McDonald, Taco Bell, Television, Religion, and Kittens. There is this place in Shinchon called 'Santa's Village' which opened last November and originally served hamburgers (because nothing says Merry Christmas quite like dead cow covered in cheese and lettuce), but now they serve various breakfast foods and beer. Guys and dolls, is it just me or has Christmas been corrupted?

Day 67: Fish in a Barrel

Sometimes we make restaurants out of giant European cook books, and sometimes we simply take large barrels, cut a hole in them, and charge high prices for people to eat meat and chicken in them. This is an example of the latter. In Hongdae, in the back alley of a road that is not so mainstream exists this place, a cross between a pirate's den and a Martha Stewart fixer-upper. The food, when I went a while back, was quite good, and the atmosphere was a little more than strange, to say the least. The entire thing looked like a make-shift fort, but still had this air of superiority as if eating in a place with a giant barrel with a hole in it as the front door is somehow above eating in places made out of concrete or brick or adheres to the fire code.

Day 66: A House is Not a Home

Especially when no one is living there. My friend and i stumbled upon this monster three story house in Hongdae of all places, with the oddest design (very Western) and strangest add-ons. The all brick exterior is cool, but then you throw in that small little wood alcove on the third floor; it was either intentional or an add-on. The house looks new enough to be an add-on, but if you'd seen the house you'd notice that that was the least strange of it. On the second floor you can see a door and a small, i mean very small, balcony. My question is this: Where is the door leading? The door looks to be like a front door, not just a balcony door, and so you have this door that leads nowhere on the second floor. All around the windows and doors are these black plastic boxes or something, first thought to be lights, but there is no rhyme or reason to their placement, so I doubt they are lights. Then I thought perhaps it's part of their ADT security, as they do looked to be electrical in nature. In any case, from the outside, it looked as if this house was completely empty and uninhabited, even though the windows were open and the balcony doors above the 2 car garage were sprung outward. I don't know what to make of this house, except that even in America people would wonder what kind of funk is going down.

Day 65: Hello...Kitty

Nothing says 'we hate Japan' and 'We are Korea!' better than Hello Kitty, because while you may be able to greet her, like a good, well-behaved girl, she doesn't talk back. You know, I'd expect a cafe like this around Ehwa, someplace in Hongdae, or even in Myeongdong, but I was quite shocked when I stumbled upon it in Shinchon. It makes me chuckle because you can eat some pasta at CM's Box, get hammered at Osama's Bar, and then sober up at the Hello Kitty Cafe, all within a 2 minute walk from each other. I wanted to go inside, but the guy I was with was a little less enthusiastic about the whole thing. But you know guys and dolls, let me leave you with something creepy yet awesome. Every time I think of Hello Kitty, I imagine a creepy, pervy British guy (sorry Nick) in a voice fit for an old man trying to get some saying 'Hello, Kitty'.

Day 64: Cooking Up a Storm

Sometimes I feel like I need to post pictures of places not in the same places I've been posting, but all the cool and interesting stuff are seriously located in the places I post. This particular place, located in Hongdae, is a restaurant filled with Italian food. And yes, it is in the shape of a giant, old European cook book. Guys and Dolls, how cool is this?! Granted, the recipes in the cook book don't correspond to the food in the restaurant, but how many places are made to look like a giant European cook book? Not many, that's how many! This is quite the popular place, too, and families like to bring their children (so I didn't eat there when I took the pictures because as we all know, Tim hates children as much as Tim hates Soviets, and I sure do hate me some Soviets). And yes, in case you are wondering, that is a garage at the base of the right page under the window. There are some epic fails when it comes to restaurant decor in Korea, but guys and dolls, this is and epic win!

Day 63: Wine Away

A short post today. Ah yes, wine bars. In America we have bars that serve wine, and most places may in fact serve wine, but Korea enjoys separating high class from low class through wine and liquor. Granted, other places play a similar game, but if you like wine in Korea it usually means you have some class. These types of wine bars have been popping up all over Seoul, this one a stone's throw from my house, but I find it interesting the wine culture in Korea, most of it more whimsical and a fallacy of people attempting to 'play high class' rather than actually knowing what they are drinking. I often wonder if people like the taste of wine or simply like the attention of others thinking they like the taste of wine. Sure, this is no different from other places, but wine has always carried with it a mark of 'I am better than you', and it is interesting, nothing more, to see such marks carried overseas to Korea.

Day 62: French Things Always Smell Good

You know, before I came across this place I never thought I'd be the kind of guy who'd enjoy a tart. I saw egg tarts and never found them that appealing, but just like common misconceptions that soccer is a game in which you sock the other person, causing physical pain, I was mistaken as to what a tart is. Granted, Le Bone Tart may not be the expert in tart making, but their assortment of tarts is enough proof for me to believe they have a stake in the tart-making business. After eating the chocolate almond tart, I came to a very sobering conclusion: A tart is like a smaller piece of pie, like pecan pie. I'm sure there is something special that makes a tart a tart and a pie a pie, and honestly I could care less about what that difference is so please don't 'do be a favor' and comment because I'll just ignore it anyways. But tarts are pretty bitchin', either way. I believe that you can find just about any type of food and/or beverage in Korea that you could normally get in other countries (save things like lion burgers and cat). This place has been here for at least three years, and doesn't seem to be shy of customers; perhaps the French outfits the ladies wear are an indication why.

Day 61: Multiple Jobs

Anyone who lives at or near the East Gate of Yonsei University, or go to school around here are probably quite familiar with this little 식당 (restaurant). This is, easily, one of the best 돈까스 (deep fried pork cutlet) in all of Korea. The menu contains many different types, from cheese to kimchi, uber spicy, and sweet potato. The outside of the place doesn't look all that appealing, but the minute you step inside it looks unlike any place you've probably eaten. The cook is not only a master deep fried pork cutlet chef but an amateur painter and photographer (he is Korean, after all). The inside has the walls covered in murals, albeit open to interpretation as to its 'quality', but it certainly doesn't fit the bill for your normal restaurant in Korea, especially in the area when the vast majority of places are pasta and way too expensive. The cook, and his wife incidentally, make friends with many of the regulars that come in, often foreigners at one of the three or four programs at Yonsei at the East Gate (KLI, GSIS, UIC, Exchange Program). This is a must go to place for anyone coming or already in Korea. Guys and Dolls, not even Martha can cook like this! And hell, she's got herself a show, magazine, and towel line at Target!

Day 60: Illegally Legal

So, you all may be wondering what this picture is and what it says. Well, the Korean isn't as important as what they are serving. You all know I love me some chicken, especially boneless chicken tenders. Well, guys and dolls, this place takes that love of boneless fried chicken tenders to a completely new level. This place, located on the streets of 이대 (Ehwa Womens University), has bite-sized boneless fried chicken mixed together with rice cakes (떡) in a sweet yet spicy sauce, complete with some tater-tots. I swear to god, this is both the best thing ever created and the worst: the taste rivals the most expensive food but the calorie and fat intake, dear lord, has to be terrible. This is actually one of many more cart food places that serve the same thing, counting 4 within a 2 mile radius. However, on a much larger scale, these places that serve food on the street (street food if you will) are both a cultural gem and a legal conundrum. If you include the food and the street vendors that sell clothing, shoes, accessories, etc. that can be found lining the streets of Myeongdong, Shinchon, and any number of places, it would seem as if it were completely legal. In all actually, until recently, all of it was illegal, on a massive scale. There is this notion in Korea that space is not easily owned, and so public space belongs to whoever stands there and sells things first. Because this has grown into such an embedded concept in Korea's daily practice, it cannot easily be 'legalized' given the current Korean legal system. So, from what I've noticed, there seem to be certain days, at least here in 이대, where all the vendors go on 'vacation', which happens to coincide with the same day police patrol the area. Only recently have I seen some vendors with official government seals and carts stamped on them, indicating that they are trying to legalize some of these vendors. But the vast majority still operate completely outside the law. Imagine if hot dog vendors could just plant themselves anywhere they wanted in America.... we may just run out of hot dogs!

Day 59: 8 Steps to Dating My Stomach

In one of my favorite parts of Seoul, Samcheon-dong, exists a little restaurant with some of the most fabulous food I've had the chance to eat in Korea. Does this place serve Korean food? No it does not. Does it serve pasta? While it does have pasta, it's main attraction is not so. Guys and dolls, this place serves some of the best French food one can find in Korea. Each course is a show, and for the main course, you can choose from a variety of pastas, if you want to live a boring life and play into the whole idea that pasta is a date food, or you can try their chicken, scallops, or beef fillet, all prepared in a special French way, whatever that means. There are only about 6 tables or so in this place, and a few on the patio, but the interior looks to be taken from a winter lodge in the States. I've been there both for a meal and simply coffee and desert, both times quite exquisite. Also, the main server is quite handsome, and we all know that's a big plus. The name of this place, you ask? It is easy to remember, has no real significance though in meaning: 8 Steps.

Day 58: Soupy Soup

I enjoy soup. I do, there is no lying here guys and dolls. When I was a kid, one of my favorite meals was chicken noodle soup and PB&J sammiches. I liked dipping the sammich into the soup and make it all soggy. Sure, it sounds gross, but we all know it tastes like magic and sunshine. Korea has some of the best soup-related products around. The picture above houses my favorite kind of soup-related product and also my favorite place that serves said soup-related product: 설농탕 (this one is a bitch to romanize, so I'm just going to leave it blank). It's a beef-broth soup, ever so lightly seasoned, with slices of beef, noodles, and green onions. Some like to eat it as it is, some may add some salt and pepper. Me? I go all out, traditional Korean baby. I add loads of kimchi (which is spicy), black pepper, and then I put the rice they give me into the soup to make it all soggy. The result is nothing shy of perfection any time of the day. I swear to god, I've gone days eating nothing but this. This place, though, kicks it up a notch by combining my two favorite foods, the 설농탕 and 만두국 (dumpling soup). So inside the soup there are some large, oh so delicious dumplings. Guys and dolls, this is certainly a good thing.

Day 57: Unicorns and Daffodils

For years they had been building this tall, 15 story building in Shinchon, causing all sorts of inconvenient times for those of us who frequent this location. Earlier in the year they finally unveiled UPLEX, an addition to the Hyundai Department Store. The concept of UPLEX is similar to the Lotte Young Plaza in Myeongdong: more affordable brands such as the Gap, Teenie Weenie, Buckaroo Jeans, and other Korean and foreign brands (no Zara yet) that are supposed to appeal to younger folks. This makes sense, considering that a five minute walk down the road places you smack-dab in the front of Yonsei University. Shinchon is known to be frequented by students and youngins on a daily basis, especially the weekend, so the attempt to turn Shinchon into a possible shopping district is underway. The appeal? Why, you can get your shopping done, eat some dinner, and get hammered all in a 2 minute walk radius. The downside is that the streets of Shinchon are still way too narrow for the amount of people traffic it handles, especially on the weekends. My solution is this: close down the roads that go through central Shinchon, from the train station to the front of Yonsei, and turn the street into a massive plaza/mall, similar to Myeongdong. Sure, it will take a little longer by car to get to whatever destination you are heading for, but I believe that more businesses and higher quality can then move in. Will this be achieved? I highly doubt it. But, one can dream. I choose to dream of unicorns and talking dogs.

Day 56: Kings, Queens, and Eye Glasses

By the look of it, you'd think this is would house one of the following things: royalty, a deity, the Tower of London, a roller coaster, or Medieval Times Dinner & Tournament. But alas, dear children of the corn, this place houses the most logical thing to house in a place that looks like this: glasses. I believe that the trend to wear glasses started in Korea, or at the very least we should thank Korea for taking what perhaps was an emerging trend and catapulted it into a global style. In Korea, even people who don't have to wear glasses do only because they think they look cool. Therefore, shops like this (well not exactly like this) are found virtually everywhere in Korea, selling glasses that range in price. Part of the appeal in Korea is that you can walk into any glasses shop and obtain a free eye exam; you no longer need to actually see the eye doctor. The only thing you pay for are the frames and the lenses, but the lenses are relatively cheap, as too the frames can be. This particular place, when they first opened, had a carriage and knights outside for picture time, and it was cool then. Now I'm not too sure, but one thing is for certain: in Korea, placing one eye glass shop next to another eye glass shop is in no way retarded.